Friday, September 08, 2006

Attention, Karl!



Not even 12 hours had passed (including recounting-my-money time and sack time) since I left Karl's home from a night of poker playing until I was able to secure a couple of bags of black-eyed peas for the Commander and myself. A three minute drive to Hsiang Shang (向上) market and a stop at the first stand that sold beans was all it took. So, to respond in kind to Karl's " Black-eyed peas in Taiwan? No way, dude," I say, "Way."

That was the easy part. The hard part was trying to get a real answer from the boss of the store.

Me: I would like fresh peas. Do you have any?
Boss: You want to grow them?
Me: No, I want to eat them.
Boss: But you just bought some.
Me: I know. But I want to buy fresh ones.
Boss: Ahhhh.
Me: Do you sell any?
Boss: Not many people eat black-eyed peas in Taiwan.
Me: I know. Do you sell any?
Boss: Not many people buy black-eyed peas in Taiwan.
Me: Can I buy fresh black-eyed peas in Taiwan?
Boss: I don't know.
Me: Where do you get the dried ones?
Boss: They're difficult to find.
Me: Where do you get them? Are they imported?
Boss: I don't know. Maybe.

You see, black-eyed peas just happen to be my favorite non-meat. They are a staple for people in the South and Texas. I grew up thinking everyone knew what they were and always ate them. I grew up thinking wrong. Many of my friends, who now know better, had never heard of them and (gasp!) didn't know you always ate them on New Year's Day for good luck.

Ignorance remedied is acceptable. Continued obtuseness is not. I remain miffed that I still see all these recipes that call for dried peas. Not everyone has access to fresh peas I know. But, when I see southern cooks use dried over fresh, I become nonplussed - yes, nonplussed. Where are the snaps? They come in a pod, you know. You shell about 3/4 of the peas and break the rest into pod-intact snaps. More texture, color and flavor. If you can, buy fresh, shell and snap them and you will thank me. This isn't even opinion. It's fact (just as it's a fact that steamed dumplings are far superior to water dumplings).

But sometimes we make do with what we have - dried peas. Still no problem. There are many recipes, like Hoppin' John, but I prefer them without rice, by them beautiful selves. Before cooking you need to soak them. You can cover them in water and let soak overnight, drain and rinse, or you can use the quick soak method. Again, cover in water, bring to a boil for about 1 minute, kill the heat, cover and let sit for about an hour. Drain and rinse and you're ready to cook. Chop up a little pork belly or sausage and brown. Add the peas, water to cover, your seasonings and cook until done but not mushy. A popular variation is Texas Caviar. I'll post a recipe from Tom Perini's cookbook later - I'm giving you credit, Tom, so don't sue me. I always go to your steakhouse when I'm home.

If you're ever in Texas, you can visit the "Black-Eyed Pea Capital of the World," in Athens, Texas (in the middle of Trinidad, Lake Palestine and Gun Barrel City). Attend the Black-Eyed Pea Jamboree or the monthly Pea Pickers Square and Round Dance. Or, you can join the International Black-Eyed Pea Appreciation Society, founded by Rip Torn's father, Elmore Rural Torn (if you can find them).

6 comments:

Chaon said...

I really hate it when I am simultaneously adamant and wrong.

Anonymous said...

Don't worry Karl ,it promted him to go find them,something he's been promissing to do for ages. I am hooked.
Thankyou John..

P.I.M.P said...
This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
P.I.M.P said...

I was actually pretty shocked when I walked into Karl's and heard the conversation about black eyed peas again. I'm not sure where I heard it last, but I'm sure it was from John. I'm quite relieved that the debate is over.....more important matters....where can I get summer sausage or spareribs?

Chaon said...

You absolutely cannot buy summer sausage or spareribs anywhere in Taiwan. I'm totally certain.

Frenchie said...

I thought they only toured in North America?? Was it the whole band?? Or just the guys and not that chick with the Humps? The Humps the Humps the Humps!!!!!!